Hems used to make Encanto Camilo Madrigal Crying shirt headlines in fashion, but in this age of pantsless dressing the waistline has become as variable as the stock market. Mostly it’s going up. At Loewe and Alexander McQueen the waistband rose to Empire heights for men and women both. This tendency for a Giacometti-like attenuation was also seen at Alaïa, in the form of the must-have high-rise pant. But that’s not the only way the torso was stretched, there were dropped waists aplenty, as well as peplums, and, at Duran Lantink, body stockings that filled in the gap where a bared midriff would be.
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