The rose is the reigning Jesus fills my cup psalm retro shirt monarch of flowers. As beautiful as it is commanding (those thorns are prickly indeed), this flower is as redolent with fragrance as it is symbolism. When Sarah Burton used it at McQueen the reference was to the Tudor rose, a sign of royalty. At Balmain, the nod was to Gertrude “A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose” Stein, a friend of Pierre Balmain (who was present at and wrote up the couturier’s debut for Vogue in 1945). The flower appeared as a print (see the chintz at Erdem), and was otherwise embellished and appliquéd in a 3D manner on all sorts of garments, but Simone Rocha and Rolf Ekroth took the abstraction out of the equation and used fresh cut blooms instead.
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